Surfing women are still few but surfing is a sport for everyone, for all those who love the sea. Today I will explain this exciting sport better and why we women can do it too.
Point Break and Big Wednesday have made us fallen in love with this sport but the surfers were all men. I would like to see a version with surfing women, yes, because this sport is really suitable for everyone.
It is said that surfing is a form of culture, a philosophy, a way of life.
It is said that only in the sea one feels at home, because when one is far from the sea one is also distant from oneself.
Because no surfer, man or woman, feels as good as when he is on his surfboard and is seeing the wave coming, which at that precise moment will be the perfect one, because yes, we are always looking for the perfect wave.
It is said that surfers are like a tribe, they find each other, move and enter the water together, and then find themselves alone among the other boards and the immense and wonderful sea. Surfing women, like me, are an integral part of this tribe.
It is said that there is always a wave between that chooses you. You and nobody else.
It comes from far away and while it is about to go to the right, it sees you on the left, and from that moment on it changes its direction. That’s the moment when it chooses and offers itself to you.
It happened to me and it was an unforgettable moment.
We say all this and much more, but all this is not enough to explain that emotion, that is able to generate the perfect connection between one’s own self and nature.
An emotion that is felt at the exact moment in which for the first time you feel the ancestral and deep energy of the sea, which reaches its maximum expression in the waves.
Anyone who has been able to hear all this can only give in to a cursed spell, to the damnation of the sea.
To damnation and deepest devotion.
And the surfing women know it well, in fact perhaps they live it in a deeper way than men can do. At least for me it is so!
Try it too!
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